Emily Cotterhill takes a seat in The Royal Borough’s culinary darling, Daphne’s, as it celebrates its 60th year. With a refined Italian menu to match the inviting atmosphere, booking a table here is always a special occasion.
Amid the refined charm of South Kensington and Chelsea, Daphne’s still radiates with the glamour and vivaciousness of its namesake Theatre Agent, Daphne Rye. Six decades have passed since its opening in 1964, yet the culinary outpost continues to draw discerning diners from the neighbourhood and beyond. As I stepped in through the decorative doors and under chintzy lampshades, I could already sense its welcoming ambience as the staff stored our coats and showed us in as if into their own home. Beyond, the lights were low-lit, casting a cosy glow across the restaurant as diners chit-chatted and narrowed their choices on the irresistible Italian menu.
We were guided through the bustling dining room, past a sultry bar, vintage Murano chandeliers, crisp white tablecloths and colourful paintings, and into the conservatory, which in my eyes, holds the best seats in the house. The aesthetics throughout have been perfectly arranged by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio with a Mediterranean garden feel, featuring symmetrical arched mirrors, rattan chairs, potted olive trees and romantic parasols perching cheerfully overhead. The decorations change with the seasons, giving even regular diners a surprise on each visit. With Christmas just around the corner, the space is now dressed to the nines with magical baubles and fir tree garlands, plus the cracking fireplace on the far wall will truly come into its own. This whimsical space, with its storybook appeal, can also be privately hired, offering a fairytale setting for intimate events or weddings after a civil ceremony at Chelsea Old Town Hall.
Once shown to our table, we were greeted by the friendly table waiter, who explained the menu and specials for the day, and we tried the house red wine — a delightful bottle of organic Amoterra Montepulciano from Abruzzo. It’s a vibrant, fruit-forward wine that can as easily be enjoyed on its own, or to complement a variety of dishes on the menu. While mulling over the food options, we savoured the smooth red, tucked into the bread basket and settled into the elegant surroundings.
Head Chef Chris Dargavel’s menu is in typical Italian format, featuring antipasti, primi, secondi and dessert courses. Daphne’s prides itself on authentic regional gastronomy, and the variety of dishes enables you to keep it as light or as indulgent as you please. We opted for the refreshing Burrata with Slow Roasted San Marzano Tomato & Pesto, and the crowd-pleasing Parmigiana shared between us for the starter. The combination of the melt-in-the-mouth cheese with the zing of the dried tomatoes, and the hearty layers of baked aubergine made for a delightful opening. The food was served in gleaming white china bowls with the Daphne’s logo emblazoned on the rim; the presentation was immaculate and called for an overhead photo before the temptation of digging in.
The Cacio e Pepe is an art form in Italy — a balance of perfectly cooked Bucatini pasta, Pecorino Romano cheese, and generous lashings of black pepper. At Daphne’s, this dish is executed with precision, its silky texture and creamy cheese sauce showcasing high-quality ingredients and careful preparation. It made for a delicious first course before my secondi: a beautifully roasted fillet of cod accompanied by white beans, crab, and cavolo nero. The dish offered a harmonious symphony of delicate flavours, with each element complementing and elevating the others.
To round off the culinary journey, delving into the dessert menu truly highlighted the Dolce Vita at Daphne’s. We were told the tiramisu is a firm favourite and it did not fail to impress. Pillowy spoonfuls of coffee and cream paired with a palate-cleansing tea perfectly concluded the decadent meal. It won’t be long before I find myself booking another visit, eager to share the boundless joy of authentic Italian cuisine here in the company of good friends.
To book a table, visit daphnes-restaurant.co.uk or call 020 7589 4257.
