Food & Drink

Shikhar and Yatra with Rohit Ghai

SHIKHAR

A fabulous man and a brilliant, visionary chef, Rohit Ghai has three of the best Indian restaurants in London including two in our very own Royal Borough.  One of the latter is the ambitious Vatavaran, a themed multi-level restaurant in the heart of Kensington and Chelsea’s shopping district (reviewed in the Summer 2025 issue next month and online next week).  Rohit’s love affair with food began in his mother’s kitchen in Punjab.  Having recognised his passion and talent early enough, he  fine-tuned it at the Institute of Culinary Management in Gwalior – an erstwhile princely state in Northern India with a rich culinary history –  which is affiliated with Pusa University in New Delhi. He then trained at two of the biggest hotel groups in India – the Taj Hotel and Resort Group and the Oberoi Hotel Group. After moving to the UK, Rohit worked in and headed kitchens at some of London’s leading Indian restaurants including Benares, Trishna, Gymkhana, Hoppers and Jamavar. Rohit is the first Indian chef to have won a Michelin star. In 2018, he launched his first solo London restaurant, Kutir, followed by KoolCha, and then Manthan in Mayfair. Most recently, he has also opened Rivayat restaurant at the Oberoi hotel in Marrakesh along with the aforementioned Vatavaran in Knightsbridge.

 

Referring back to Vatavaran or ‘(good) ambience’ in Hindi as the name suggests, the top floor of the tall behemoth of a themed restaurant that is Vatavaran is quite appropriately Shikhar, a guestlist-only cocktail lounge and private members club.  Shikhar, which translates as peak or summit is a fitting crown to the restaurant’s Himlayan-inspired levels  – offering a high-altitude cocktail experience with a constellation-inspired drinks trolley curated by renowned mixologist Abhishake Sangwan (ex-Tamarind, Jamavar, Burj Al Arab). Highlights include kokum-infused tequilamasala chai-spiced rum, and Champagne with Jaan Paan and crème de mûre – all served table-side with Himalayan flair. The food menu features elegant small plates like Goat Shami Kebab with roasted plumPaneer Tikka with timur chilli, and Maach Bhaat (a refined spin on sea bass and tamarind rice).

Shikhar is now open Tuesday-Sunday with a members-only service during the day and a guestlist-only lounge atmosphere by night. The founding membership programme (£750 p.a.) includes credits towards spending across all of the group’s venues (Vatavaran, KutirManthan),  exclusive perks, personalised whiskey bottles, complimentary tastings, and even access to luxury flats near Harrods at preferred rates

YATRA

As if the announcement of Shikhar wasn’t enough, Rohit has also released Yatra – a wonderfully knowledgable and remarkably varied oddyssey of recipes from a total of ten differing states of India.  It is a wonderful journey which takes the reader from the northern states of  Uttar Pradesh, Punjab and Bihar to the eastern edge of West Bengal, dips deliciously into the southern states of Andhra Pradesh and Kerala and rounds off in spectacular style with Goa, Maharasthra, Gujarat and Rajasthan.  Published by Nourish (ISBN: 978-1-84899-435-5), Yatra is a wonderful reference book with some rather delectable dishes from the subcontinent and a must for fans of Rohit and  Indian cooking in general.  The book starts off with handy bits including e a recipe for Kolhapuri Masala – think fiery garam masala from the ghats of Sahyadris in the western state of Maharashtra –  and goes on to extract the true essence Indian cuisine in a concise, uncomplicated and user-friendly way.  A full-length review for the book will also go live in the coming month both within print and online.

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