Those of you who remember the Butcher’s Tap know this isn’t the first time Tom Kerridge has tried out a culinary concept on the aptly named Tryon Street. Tom even graced the KCR cover a couple of Christmases ago for this very reason.
The difference is that the Chalk Freehouse feels lived in, without the need for sports on the big screen. Its vintage burgundy tiling (not dissimilar to the Metropolitan Line) and handwritten specials boards give the place a familiar feel where the conversation flows as easily as the cherry Scotch sours and chilli-infused margaritas, with or without the salty rims. (You’re excused.)
In the autumn, gazpacho moves over in favour of heritage carrot soup with cream cheese croûte. Keeping starters light – with crab sardines or Welsh leeks – seems sensible where substantial, meaty mains are the order of the day, and let’s be honest, it’s difficult not to get excited about tender confit duck with braised lentils and fresh figs.
But the stand-out here appears in a supporting role: the signature Chelsea Spud. Best described as a deep fried Hasselback potato, this future classic is served with a moreish green garlic butter. It’s crunchy on the outside, soft and pillowy on the inside: punters have also compared it to a giant chip.
And in keeping with the SW3 theme, you’ll definitely want to sample the Chelsea bun with cold vanilla custard, boozy fruits and praline. While it might sound heavy and Christmassy, this historical pudding is restorative at any time of year.
In Lewis Carroll’s twisted tale from the 1880s, Chelsea Buns, he reveals these current pastries have long been a local favourite. The bun seller calls out, “Piping hot! Chelsea buns! That’s what most young ladies like best!”
Reader, he wasn’t wrong.
On the set lunch menu, reasonably priced at £30 for two courses, there’s a choice between broccoli soup or ox cheek to start, chicken and mushroom pie or fish cakes for main, and apple-yogurt mousse or cheese with fruit bread for dessert.
But if you want paté churned to order or beef with bone marrow, girolle mushroom butter and watercress, you’ll want to stick to the à la carte.
And let’s not forget the Chalk also offers a cracking Sunday roast
In short, just like a Chelsea bun, this place is piping hot.
