Last month in September 2024, trailblazing Michelin-starred restaurant UMU proudly celebrated its 20th anniversary with two extraordinary dinner partnerships, offering a rare chance to sample the finest selection of Moët & Chandon vintage champagnes plus a very special 2004 anniversary Jeroboam (double magnum) bottle of Moët & Chandon paired alongside UMU’s most exquisite signature dishes. Over the past two decades, UMU has become a cornerstone of Japanese fine dining in London, celebrated for its innovative approach, unwavering commitment to quality, and deep respect for traditional Japanese culture. Head Chef Ryo is Argentinian from Japanese descent. He undertook his Kaiseki training at 2 Michelin starred Kaiseki Ichimonji in Tokyo. He has also been involved in other ventures from setting up his own Izakaya concept to enriching his skills in other foreign cuisines. In 2014, he was asked by Yoshi to join him at Umu as his number two and has since been fully involved in the creation and development of our Kaiseki menu. He is now the executive chef since December 2020. We (KCR) spoke to him (RK) to celebrate UMU’s remarkable history.
KCR: What is Kyoto cuisine and what sets it apart from other Japanese sub-cuisines?
RK: Kyoto cuisine is nowadays represented by Kyo-Kaiseki, Shojin ryori and Obanzai. All of them benefited by the soft waters of Kyoto that help the extraction of umami from the kombu into the dashi. Dishes cooked with this dashi would not need strong seasoning, enhancing the natural flavour of the local ingredients, keeping colours and textures.
KCR: Please tell our readers what Kaiseki means and how you have mastered the art through your experience with various top class restaurants and professionals
RK: Kaiseki originates as a simple meal served before the Japanese tea ceremony. It later evolved into a multi course meal designed to match sake. The Kaiseki cuisine puts emphasis on the seasons, five cooking technics (raw, steamed, simmered, grilled and fried) and five flavours (salty, acidic, sweet, bitter and Umami). My training in Kaiseki started at Ichimonji, in Tokyo, which gave me a strong foundation. At UMU, working with Yoshinori Ishii, Masato Nishihara and Daisuke Shimoyama helped me develop a more modern and approachable cuisine.
KCR: What is it like working with Ryan Johnson and that does the Sake service bring to the experience of Kaiseki?
RK: Working with Ryan is fun. He is always curious, open to new challenges.The sake, having a wide range of flavours, textures and serving temperatures, helps complement flavours and reset palates.
KCR: How does your Argentinian Japanese heritage influence your work?
RK: Growing up in Argentina made me a meat lover. At UMU I always try to implement seasonal meat dishes on the menu, salt marsh lamb in summer, grouse in autumn and deer in winter.
KCR: It’s been twenty years of UMU – the first Kyoto kaiseki restaurant in London! Congratulations! How does it feel and what can regulars, Japanophiles and newbies expect from your classy establishment over the next few years?
RK: Thank you! And I also want to thank all the team members, past and present, that have made this possible.For the next few years, we will keep offering the best local ingredients prepared with traditional Japanese techniques.
KCR: Can you briefly summarise UMU’s sustainability credentials and its import in terms of the summer menu?
RK: Our priority is to source ingredients from the British Isles where possible and to complement with ingredients from mainland Europe and Japan. This is reflected on our summer Kaiseki menu where we are serving Cornish lobster, Welsh lamb and Scottish langoustine. Complemented with Japanese ingredients like kinome, mitsuba and umeboshi.
KCR: What are your personal favourites on the menu?
RK: From the summer menu, the charcoal grilled Welsh lamb is my favourite. And when in season, the grouse hot pot is another. Meat, especially game, is always on the top of my list.
KCR: How do compare the Japanese food scene within London to other non-Japanese cities such as New York and Paris?
Honestly, I don’t know enough about New York and Paris to give an opinion.
KCR: What are your favourite restaurants in London
RK: The Ledbury for its game dishes and Hannah for Japanese cuisine that always surprises with the combination of tradition and new creations.
UMU is open Tuesday – Saturday for Lunch 12pm-2pm and Dinner 6pm-10pm. We will feature a review of the restaurant within the Chrsitmas edition in print this November and it will go online this coming Friday.
